Barbecue, Rebooted

TALK ABOUT AN OVERACHIEVER. Korean barbecue would be plenty tasty
even in its simplest state—Asian-style, soy-marinated meat, grilled until its
edges become deeply caramelized. But when Korean BBQ hits the table, it
comes with a posse: a greed-satisfying spread of cool vegetable salads, spicy
kimchi, and crisp lettuce that transforms a dose of protein into an all-star
feast. And it all comes together in record time. • “Korean-style barbecue is
so simple and so fl avorful it will change the way you cook,” says Wuchung
Kim, executive chef at Don’s Bogam, in Manhattan’s Koreatown. Start by
steaming rice and prepping the sides, and then turn to the meat. Boneless
beef short rib, a fatty, fl avorful cut, is a classic choice. Kim slices it thin,
massages it with an intense marinade, and grills it until it’s as tender as a
slow-cooked brisket, as full-fl avored as a New York strip, and as satisfying
as a quarter-pound patty. • At the table, the spectrum of sides and toppings
pays off big time. Wrap a piece of meat in a lettuce leaf, and then experiment.
Like it spicy? Add kimchi. Want crunch? Tuck in carrot slices. With Korean
BBQ, you can customize every bite.